"I thought we signed up for the same thing... I thought our relationship was perfectly clear. You are an escape. You're a break from our normal lives. You're a parenthesis"
Our family has an ongoing joke that our girls can never get a straight answer from Shannon and Ryan on what we like in a restaurant. It always ends up going into a full on Travel Channel styled debate on quality control, menu selection, service, and value. But we enjoy it. Shannon of course just wants the best food and a great glass of Pinot and isn't worried about price. For Ryan though, enjoyment (as with many things in his life) is always a bit nebulous and grounded in value. Meaning, Ryan loves a good Filet Mignon but would rather have a great $25 filet with pretty good service over an $80 orgasmic filet. Well maybe Filet Mignon is not a good illustration as an $80 velvet textured filet that you can spread with your tongue is a rare and beautiful thing like other things that are so tender you can spread with you tongue. But anyway, any answer from Ryan on "do you like this place daddy?" is clouded in price vs value, along with presentation, choices of sides, service, and other accouterments that nobody (and certainly not my daughters) care about.
Anyway, a few weeks ago we found our way meandering through Orlando with a few hours to kill ahead of boarding a homeward flight from ORD to BWI. Orlando means Disney and Disney is a second home to my girls. On a quick count I believe we've been to Disney (Cali, Florida, and cruise included) fifteen (15) times since they were born. Wait, this past time was probably the 16th and I'm probably forgetting one or two. Anyway, we are addicted to Disney. And because I'm who I am and we are who we are and this blog is what it is, I am addicted to determining the best, most efficient, and affordable way to enjoy Disney and then to, of course, blog about it.
What you end up with a happy environment, a warm atmosphere, solidly good food not at Victoria and Albert's pricing, and a free show! Who doesn't like free, especially at Disney. Doesn't Irish music and those quick footed Irish dancers just make life seem great!? And when they are so close to you and so cute, all the better (dancers and musicians)! At our last visit we got to see these dancers and the Briste Band who are one talented group of cute Irish lassies! Yes, during your visit you will laugh, cry, drink, maybe be kicked, maybe fall down from too much drink but you will leave full and happy.
Chicken Pot Pie - YUM!
So Raglan Road comes out punching for pleasure from the time you sit down. First tasting action is the amazing Irish soda bread with their special Guinness Dipping Sauce that, with the beer and Brown Sugar, is delightfully tangy and sweet (just like those quick stepping dancers)! I would definitely consider an appetizer at this place. There are many to choose from including salads and some great seafood (and yes they have wings if you just can't break free from your Yankee ways). We like the Smokie City which is a creamy baked haddock spread with potatoes and tomatoes enjoyed over crispy toasted baguette. By now Shannon half way through her first glass of Pinot. Ryan does have to bail on authenticity here as he has never been one of those bitter brown beer dudes. I admit I have to punt and do a lager. For the true of beer connoisseur Raglan Road does have beer flights and true Irish imports.
If you don't have a big appetite, many of the appetizers and salads can sub in for center of the plate. Shannon loves their Irish Egg, the scallops on the appetizer menu can make a meal, and if you are a little too chichi, fru fru, or simply Continental you can go with their Goat Cheese terrine with shallots and shiitake mushrooms over mixed greens.
Ryan is not a real heavy eater so when I'm going to Raglan Road I try to not eat all day and save up for some real gluttony. I am simple and love the Chicken Pot Pie (often a special) or the Guinness Beef Stew. The pies are warm and hearty with the savory mushrooms and Irish root vegetables making the dish as much as the main protein feature. The creamy filling in contrast to the crisp scratch pie crust creates a delightful distinction yet balance to your palate. You have to have the Colcannon Mashed Potatoes as a side. I'm not a big veggie eater but the fresh bacon & almond roasted brussels are a rare way to get me to eat those typically nasty things. The parsnips are nice and Irishy too! Be careful the portions are mighty! The Roast Chicken will feed a small army and if you have your kiddies along they do make a decent burger. If you do feel like you have to experience tasteless Brit food they do have the obligatory fish and chips and bangers and mash (or in Raglan's case and booze).
Dessert is a Irish drama as there is so much to choose from including Fluffy Lemon Clouds, Sinful Chocolate Smothered Cake, Tart Berry trifles, and apple crumb cake. I'm always a sucker for bread pudding so that is typically my desire. But no worries you can go with a min-dessert flight which is typically how the Beaumont's roll. If you are not merry enough yet pair that dessert with a Bailey Irish coffee or a silky smooth port.
By now you are full of food and full of drink and dance, nothing can get you down; even if you have to board a plane and go home.
So next time you are a Disney and you don't have an eternity of money (or time) then just click your heels, say Erin Go Bragh, and head over to Raglan Road and enjoy!
"May you always have...
Walls for the winds
A roof for the rain
Tea beside the fire
Laughter to cheer you
Those you love near you
And all your heart might desire."
And enjoy the fact that while food and spirits may not be the meaning of life they sure do give meaning to life!
Well the good news today is that I am writing a post which means I survived my bi-annual trip to my in-laws, the DINKS. I've written about them before (here); DINK's meaning double income, no kids. This trip was particularly stressful because we were there a full three days. An overnight at the DINK's is survivable, just like when you get a colonoscopy; you simply need to make sure you are hydrated and you pretty much can survive the 36 hour period with no non-alcoholic infused liquid intake.
Just to explain the DINK's (by definition) don't have kids so they don't live or eat like normal human beings. Mr. Dink lives off of approximately 3-4 cheese and crackers, micro-brewed IPA's, and small batch artisanal bourbons. Mrs. Dink lives off leaf lettuce varietals, old world grains, and various nut milks including Cashew, Almond, and free range organic pistachio infused acai coconut water.
To be fair we disrupt their lives by bringing a very scary invasive species into their virgin ecosystem; namely two common teenagers. The teenagers lie down on couches that are not even supposed to be sat upon, they wipe their face with ornamental towels that are not actually supposed to be used at all, and wash their hands with decorative soaps that you don't actually use. The teens don't understand stuff you look at but don't touch and the DINK's don't understand being around humans who expect constant service, technology, and nourishment. Heck, Mr. Dink is not even on Facebook so he has no concept of the need to check Snap Chat every 8.5 seconds!
The mixture of these worlds is difficult at best, dangerous at worst. Hell, they don't even have cable for Christ Sake. And that doesn't mean they have like a satellite dish, they actually don't have ESPN. How do you not have ESPN in a first world country. I couldn't even watch my second favorite college rivalry game on Thanksgiving Night and had to keep track of my idiot Redskins via stats-tracker; in a word I felt violated! I felt like I was in Antarctica! I had to make major logistical plans to make sure I would be in a place I could watch Big State U last weekend and had to go through considerable angst when we then determined to watch the game at one of the Dink's favorite pubs. Until I actually saw the game on TV I was sure I would find myself at a wine bar with a jazz band and a pack of 40-something hipsters talking about net-neutrality and their short game.
Yesh!
The first night I woke up around 2 am and my mouth feeling like I had woken up in the Sahara Desert. I walked to the kitchen and opened the refrigerator. In a normal human home (or at least mine) you could hydrate with fruit punch, OJ, sweet tea, lemonade, maybe even Kiwi-Strawberry lemonade but bottom line you can go back to sleep with your thirst quenched. As my eyes blearily perused the refrigerator panic slowly infiltrated my soul. The refrigerator was completely full yet with nothing a normal human could drink. There were, as stated above, no less than 4 varieties of organic nut related milk; bleck! There was enough beer varieties to put an Irish pub to shame. And yet nothing to actually quench a normal persons thirst. And then I saw it a small bottle of clear liquid. WATER! Yes water, I can drink that! I grab it and start to twist off the cap. DAMN! It's Club Soda. It's Mr. Dink's club soda he splashes over his small batch artisanal bourbon. That's not water that's fizzy water that fakes you out, kind of like ocean salt water. OMG, I'm going to die! I finally had to settle for tap water. But first I had to gently grab a glass glass to pour the water into. Who drinks out of a glass glass? In our home we have all plastic cups, like normal people. If it drops on the floor, no worries! At the Dink's, weary and unstable from dehydration, I have to gently handle a glass from the 1998 Kiwanis Golf Scramble, knowing it simply can't be dropped and broken as that is the one Mr. Dink won the closest to the hole competition.
Also disturbing was the presence of the Thanksgiving bird sitting uncovered in the fridge wilting from dehydration just like me. I walked away somewhat hydrated by lukewarm tap water but couldn't help but worry about what that dry old turkey would taste like tomorrow.
Btw, Shannon and I are both pretty good cooks having both served in the hospitality industry for many years. In spite of our differences, in the kitchen we are a power couple churning out food like a well oiled machine. But that bird was not bound to be well oiled, it was likely to be as dry as my tongue.
On Thanksgiving Day after a long walk I broke down and found an open grocery store and brought home enough hydration to get through the rest of the weekend for myself and the teens. To my teens delight I even found Cheer Wine, a delicacy hard to enjoy when outside the Carolinas. But when I got home I saw the trepidation in my teens eyes. I asked what's wrong? Apparently Ms. Dink had been seen with Brussel Sprouts! Brussel sprouts ain't for Thanksgiving! My daughter mumbled "I just want the regular Thanksgiving stuff like turkey and potatoes and green beans..... I don't want anything organic."
Thankfully the meal ended up OK. Ms. Dink basted the turkey in garlic butter and it was fine. The brussel sprouts ended up as a salad which I tasted and survived. Dessert, OK as well; though I have to admit enjoying the frustration Ms. Dink exhibited after thrice failing at her home made chocolate tart dough; not understanding the concept of flouring the table to roll your crust.
I know I'm a jerk, but when you can't watch the State-UNC game you take entertainment where you can get it.
Friday, I did convince the group to go out and see a live college basketball game which gave me the opportunity to load up on needed sustenance from the vegetable, starch, and processed cheese food groups with a large popcorn and nachos and cheese from the concessions stand. For a moment I felt like a married man again!
Oh speaking of married. Over dinner the married Dink's asked about Christmas. They were looking into treating each other to a spa weekend in Sonoma and asked what we were doing. Shannon and I mentioned that we were considering buying for one another a sexy stainless steel refrigerator washing machine combo! Yes the contrast is pervasive.
Oh well, I'm not such a good house guess myself. I don't start drinking until 5 pm and I don't know when or why you would use a 5 wood vs a long iron. Anyway, I gleefully made everyone stay to the last second of my favorite college rivalry game, merrily watching to the bitter end Big State U's gazilianth straight #ss kicking of Pompous Preppy U.
And now I'm home and comfortable and glad I don't have to venture back into the desert until well after the rainy season. I'm sure the Dink's were happy when we left, able to get back to their novels, golf game, and aroma therapy.
Eldorado (Spanish for "golden one") was a mythical place sought by many European adventurers in the 16th and 17th centuries including notable explorations funded by Sir Walter Raleigh and Francisco Pizarro. During that Age of Discovery these explorers traveled through the jungles and valleys throughout the Amazonian and Orinoco River basins in search of mystical kings and mythical cities of gold upon an enchanting lake, lost to the known world.
Eldorado through time has evolved to become a metaphor for a "Holy Grail" type mission. In America it seems that every western state has a town or county name Eldorado, obviously so named as the glorious destination adventurers sought in the dawn of our nation's Westward expansion. Over time Eldorado has become as much a mythical search as much as a destination. To search for Eldorado is as much the glory as it is to find it. And of course the true challenge is to stay true to the mission of the journey and to avoid getting corrupted by greed in a lost journey of discovery.
In the last months of last year the organization I work for has in some sense been in search of Eldorado. Just before the holidays we were in a position to win a great prize out west. The fact that we were even considered for this honor was a mythical feat. It was not likely that we would win but we did go west to seek, a small organization battling titans in search of glory an organization such as ours should not dare to seek. Though I was not part of the group directly involved in winning the prize, I had worked in support with them through the year and did now venture with them. Shannon joined me for the trip. It would be a rare weekend get-away for just us. It also took us through passages of our past life in the Midwest. A layover at the C gate at STL was like going to a high school reunion, flying over the arch and the great Mississippi and Missouri Rivers uncovered melancholy memories of past struggles on our path many years ago. And yet this journey, so joyous, provided contrast to that past. Remembering where we had been made where we were and where we were going so much more rewarding.
What we were doing was exactly the thing we had aspired to many years ago when we were first married. I thought to myself, "what does one do when they become who they wanted to be when they grow up." I hoped this trip might mean something for us, to her. That perhaps this contrast of who we've become verses who we were would make a difference and show us how we could be.
We made it to the event later that day. It was as glorious and spectacular as I had hoped for. My organization is not great but we do great things. Nobody expects much from us but we fight the good fight. The fact that we fight matters. We did not win but we were there and for us the pursuit of Eldorado was all that mattered.
After the event, Shannon and I ventured down town and found a wonderful Italian restaurant. It was too busy to find a seat but there were two spots at the bar and across the bar was a brick oven. The scene was perfect and the meal was spectacular (best lasagna ever, maybe a post some time in the future). We 'Ubered' our way back to the hotel. Our flight was early the next morning. This was the moment I had hoped for but alas I was too weary to try for something romantic. Perhaps it was best, this was a step. The pursuit of Eldorado is a process and perhaps this process starts with that first step. For anyway, another Eldorado was our next mission.
Christmas came and went. Shannon's glorious points provided our next venture to Dorado by the sea in the Caribbean. Perhaps this time the quest for Eldorado would produce what I had hoped for.
I was immediately taken aback by the lush green and hilly topography of the island. From the airport we had a pleasant and easy 1 hour drive to the resort, just enough to peak interest and get acclimated. We parked at the resort and went up to our room and immediately from our window up high were introduced to the sea by a gorgeous rainbow out over the water as passing bands of showers passed gingerly east to west on the horizon.
We changed into swim suits and went down to the beach to explore our new surroundings. The resort beach was protected by an archipelago of rocks creating a breakwater. Instinctively I jumped on the rocks to climb and explore to the edge of the sea. Shannon of course pulled the girls back showing no interest in my explorations. At the edge of the rocks overlooking the breaking waves was a loving couple. It would be nice to be there with Shannon but she would never climb out on the rocks even though it was a really easy climb. My mind wandered now on my isthmus as I watched the breaking waves, the soaring sea birds, and the small crabs washing up and then climbing about the rocks beneath me. After some pictures and a poor attempt at a selfie I climbed back to the family. Shannon had enough of the wind and sand and wanted to retreat to the pool and a cool boat drink. The girls swam and Shannon ordered a Passion Punch and plugged into her I-Phone; I walked back to my archipelago of rocks, climbed, and allowed my mind to wander.
The hotel had a wonderful happy hour in the late afternoon with a great singer accompanied by a karaoke machine. Everyone was happy and the singer performed many old 80's favorites. I fancied that she could sing a great version of Abba's Fernando but she didn't know that song. She did sing Dancing Queen to the delight of the crowd. Happy hour finished and we moved onto a restaurant Shannon found on Yelp. It was the first of many fantastic places we enjoyed over our few days. I assumed the island would have interesting Caribbean and Latin cuisine but I was pleasantly astounded by the creole influences of the Shrimp Mufongo I enjoyed washed down with a Medalla. The next three days passed quietly and peacefully as we enjoyed the pool, the cuisine, and some fun drives in our Jeep around the island. We had a suite but not much chance for romance. But it was OK, we had fun.
Perhaps the best was touring the old main city of the island and enjoying the breathtaking images from the castle above the seawall.
We flew back New Years Eve. We got back in town just ahead of Midnight. There was a party at a tavern in our town. I know the owners, Shannon likes the place. Knowing people in our town is one of the few value-added qualities I bring to Shannon. Even though we were tired, Shannon was glad to stop by the tavern to ring in the new year. We would know a lot of people there so everyone was happy. The tavern was packed and they had an awesome DJ playing a good mix of new dance songs along with 70's/80's funk and dance. Shannon was having fun, one of her good friends was there. At the town tavern kids are welcome and my daughter had a friend there as well (the daughter of Shannon's friend). The second Pinot Grigio at the tavern along with the two Shannon had had on the plane put her in one of her happy moods (although I would caveat that as her "fake" demeanor). But the night moved on and we crept closer to Midnight.
The DJ played a slow song just ahead of Midnight. Shannon motioned to me to come over as she had been on the dance floor with her pals. She put her arms around me inviting me to dance. I instantly remembered the feel of her body, so perfect in mine. She is so slight and petite, so delicate to the touch. Though slight she is just taller than average (for a woman) and willowy and her head fits perfectly just at my chest. The countdown began and everyone was gleeful and cheery. Just past that last second into Midnight Shannon did lean up to kiss me. That was not so out of the ordinary, in front of others she often prefers to maintain the semblance of a happy marriage.
However, the slow music went on and she did not detach. She put her arms around my shoulders continuing the dance. A few moments later I felt her lips again on my cheek. I looked at her and she smiled.
What was this? I understood that gentle facade of a short dance and a quick kiss but this was not necessary for appearances. Shannon was allowing a pleasure beyond minimum expectations. It was seductive and dangerously suspicious and at the same time excruciatingly enchanting.
Then again isn't that the reality of pursing Eldorado? Perhaps what Eldorado provides, and certainly the pursuit thereof, is the enchantment of blurring anticipation, hope, myth, and truth.
"Over the mountains of the moon, down the valley of the shadow, ride, boldly ride, the shade replied, if you seek Eldorado!"
Yes the search for Eldorado in essence is the search for truth and "truth is (in fact) like poetry, and most people *ucking hate poetry..."
Sorry, I just had to add that quote from the Big Short.
Sitting here on top of everywhere, what do I care. Days never end, I know the voyage's end will soon be here, no eternal life is here for me. And now I found the key to the eternal dream. Then I will stay, I'll not be back, Eldorado. I will be free of the world, Eldorado. Then I will stay.
"Oh Shenandoah" is a traditional American folk song dating to the 19th century. It has been sung by many artist over the years and was the title track to the beautiful 1965 Civil War epic Shenandoah starring Jimmy Stewart set in rolling hills of the movie's namesake valley. The song is figuratively narrated by an early American Western traveler who refers to Shenandoah, an Iroquois chief, and a lovely daughter that weary fur trader misses and longs to see again.
P. Buckley Moss - artist of the valley
While the song is not actually about the river or valley, to me when I hear the song it speaks to my love of this region and how it calls to me. The Shenandoah River flows into the Potomac in Harpers Ferry at the end of it's journey through the Virginias. In so doing the river helps to form a beautiful valley that lies between the Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mountains to the east and west. The area is deep in history, beauty, and a certain elegant charm that transports its visitors to a slower pace that enriches the senses to the refreshing possibilities beyond that Beltway pace of life.
Where the Shenandoah & Potomac meet
Historically, the valley was the frontier of colonial Virginia; then was the breadbasket of the Confederacy; and now is a genteel land where apple orchards and horse country meet the exurbs and offer many wondrous adventures for those who want to flee the frenetic pace of Metro DC. Many of those farm houses have turned from homes to charming country inns and many of those farmers have found that the warm climate and rich Virginia soil along the slopes of those gentle mountains are ideal for some of those grapes folks have been growing in places like Napa and the Rhone Valley.
Today I'd like to share with you a few out of the way spots you might think about visiting should you ever find yourself in my part of the world. And yes, I have frequented some of these spots amid my various AM Adventures. Who knows, that guy with the vacant look in his eyes you see on your visit might be Ryan!
Geographically, the Shenandoah Valley starts near Lexington, Virginia above the James River (which flows east towards Richmond) picking up the North and South forks of the Shenandoah River near Harrisonburg, Virginia and then following that river north until it meets the Potomac at Harpers Ferry.
Once in Harpers Ferry you will feel you have been transported to the mid-19th century. The whole town is, in essence, a museum. The National Park area vividly depicts the famous events that occurred in the town and acted as the flash point of the American Civil War when John Brown and his raiders sought to begin a slave insurrection in 1859 thus catapulting the country forward towards war. Now its hard to imagine such horror amid the beauty of the area. Across the river a hike up to Maryland Heights (see above) is a challenging but not insurmountable 2 mile walk that leads you to a spectacular view of the rivers and the town. The vista is one of the more famous in the United States and should be on anyone's "bucket list." Almost as spectacular is the view above the town at Jefferson Rock. The Appalachian Trail runs through Harpers Ferry and the headquarters are located in town. Throughout the town there are many attractions both historic and active such as Storer College (an important early location for the Niagara Movement, the forerunner to the NAACP) for the history lover or the zip line canopy tour of town for the thrill seeker. Ryan and Sandee are more the thrill seekers!
About 10 miles from Harpers Ferry is a quaint little distillery that makes homemade Lemoncello. Bloomery Plantation's mantra is "an artisanal blend of vice and virtue," kind of like Ryan!At Bloomery they grow their own lemons and berries and hand squeeze into their smooth delightful elixirs. You can find their liquors in some of the liquor stores in Northern Virginia, DC, and Beltway, Maryland but you'll thank yourself for driving out into the country and visiting their home. The tasting room is adapted from the log cabin kitchen from the old pre-Civil War plantation along the Shenandoah river.
If you venture through the doors you will be greeted by an exuberant and helpful staff that delight in taking you through a tasting tour of the distillery's lemoncello concoctions along with some wonderful recipe ideas. When you walk away you won't be simply satisfied with the wonderful liquor, you'll be looking forward to that first BBQ you'll host and serve a Peach Tea Sangria with your Peach Sweet Shine or an intimate brunch where you could serve a lemoncello Mimosa.
If you are hungry after hiking and/or tasting just drive along Rt 9 over the river and Blue Ridge Mountain to Hillsboro, VA and then turn right towards Purcellville.
There you will find a real Southern Treat. Magnolias at the Mill is a lovely restaurant built into a restored seed mill. The restaurant sits adjacent to the Washington & Old Dominion Regional Park which is a rail to trail conversion running from Georgetown and culminating in Purcellville, VA.
Magnolias has several wonderful dishes including a fantastic wood fired Margarita Pizza, but my favorite is shrimp & grits. The scenery in the restaurant alone is fantastic but they do have TV's and it's a great place to watch Big State U on a fall Saturday (at least when they are not screwing up and making Ryan yell at the TV)!
As the Shenandoah river approaches the Potomac she crosses into West Virginia. At that point the ridge along Blue Ridge Mountain (which also happens to be the path of the Appalachian Trail) forms the state line between the two Virginias with the Shenandoah Valley to the west and Loudoun Valley forming to the east of that last mountain on the Blue Ridges. Along those slopes of that Eastern valley are the homes to some of the best vineyards in Virginia. Hey, did you know that Virginia is #5 in national wine grape production! And of course Virginia, namely Monticello (home to Thomas Jefferson), is the birthplace of American wine where Mr. Jefferson first started growing the grapes he brought home from his beloved France.
Anyway, Breaux Vineyard is the largest and probably overall the best vineyard. If you like sweeter wines this is a great place for you. They also do a good job with Merlots. While I'm not overly fond of Viognier, an ancient and somewhat rare grape, the long growing season and moderate temperature needed for the variety makes Virginia and ideal growing location. Thusly, Virginia Viogniers, including Breaux, tend to be exceptional and truly peers of their Rhone Valley European brethren. Breaux also does a fantastic job with an iced Nebbiolo, an Italian grape one does not often come across. But if you really have a sweet tooth, the tastiest of their wines is their Soleil a late harvest (always best and fruitiest) iced dessert wine. Breaux also has a wonderful selection of cheeses and will bake fresh French batard to go with your wine and cheese; overall a great relaxing afternoon adventure - read what you will from that! :)
Nearby is Hillborough Vineyard with a tasting room sitting high on the hill above the valley and yielding a spectacular and best view of the wine valley.
Just around the corner from Hillsborough is Doukenie Winery. Doukenie has a beautiful little duck pond by the tasting room which provides a wonderful spot to picnic and enjoy your wine. Doukenie has many wonderful selections but it's most unique selection is Hope's Legacy, a sweet Merlot infused with raspberries and blueberries - delightful!
A little hint when you are visiting Doukenie, Hope (the vineyards owner) is Greek and loves to cook. If you see Hope ask her if she has any baklava, she usually does. Ask her for a piece and tell her Ryan sent you. Well, don't tell her Ryan sent you because that's not really my name but ask her for some, she has never failed to put out for me and it's AMAZING, the baklava that is! :)
You may not have guessed it but Ryan has always been a little salty sweet. At least I like to claim so because it seems all the hot women are hot for salted caramel and stuff like that. So if you have had a little dessert wine at Breux or a tasty dessert at Magnolias you might want to take a drive south down Rt 11 to Mt. Jackson, VA (home of the apple tower) and to the best chip factory this side of anywhere. Their savory treats will add a little salt to your sweetness. Really, Rt 11 chips are fantastic and you can ask them for a tour or just watch them make the chips. Either way it's fun and of course bring home some chips - the Chesapeake Crab chips are the best! Well, second best chip actually. I forgot that Zapp's Spicy Cajun Crawtators are my all time favorite but I'll have to save them for a New Orleans post.
Tucked between Rt 340 and Rt 7 (as if even that were on a big map) and somewhere between Winchester, Berryville, and Paris (as if those were big towns) is the hamlet of Millwood. Millwood has a post office, an antique store, an artisan shop, and probably the cutest, quaintest little wine/gourmet food shop you'll find anywhere. They are often having wine tasting so check them out on the web. But for a great picnic get a slice of quiche or a bowl of oyster stew along with a nice Pinot and hike across the road to the wonderful little picnic area below the Burwell Morgan Mill.
Trust me, it's a great first date! Except if it's a date just tell her it's a romantic place; telling her you want to get away for some wine and quiche is just not real manly you know!
Running just to the East of the Shenandoah River is Sky Meadow State Park, home to some lovely vineyards and a particularly lovely country Inn.
I make no political statement here but around these parts if a country inn is named after a Confederate Cavalry officer there is a good chance it's quite elegant, refined, and charming. Turner Ashby was Stonewall Jackson's chivalrous cavalry officer from Fauquier County (heart of Virginia horse country). He led Jackson't cavalry during most of the famed Shenandoah Campaign before he was killed in action near Harrisonburg, VA in rear guard action just ahead of Jackson's penultimate resounding victory at Port Republic.
Turner Ashby is now immortalized by the beautiful inn bearing his name in Paris, VA at the Northern end of Sky Meadow State park. The Ashby Inn dates back to 1829 and is nestled into the charming hamlet of Paris, VA. It is the perfect launching point for excursions around the local valley. The restaurant is wonderful offering a seasonal menu and featuring local ingredients. Sky Meadow State park offers several wonderful hiking trails, horseback riding, and beautiful picnicking areas. The area between Paris to the north and Delaplane, VA to the south (along Rt 17) also offers a collection of vineyards that rivals it's northern counterpart in Loudoun County (mentioned above).
Ryan's personal favorite in this area is Three Foxes Vineyard, seated just above Crooked Run and offering a gorgeous view of the valley.
As much as equestrian polo may seem to be a sport for the aristocracy, at Great Meadows (just outside of Warrenton, VA) the sport is delightfully accessible. Over the summer months the equestrian event center hosts twilight polo matches. You pay by the carload, just $30/each so it's a great chance to entertain some of those polyamorous ladies or perhaps that threesome you just met on AM. Most people make it pot luck but there usually is a local vineyard selling wine by the glass and bottle.
Oh, yeah; the "eye candy" there is, in a word, SPECTACULAR! :)
But, I tell you; polo really is fun to watch and the sun setting over the mountains in the background is wonderfully peaceful.
So there you go; that's Ryan's little tour of the Shenandoah and areas thereabouts. Come join us, as you know -
Though Shenandoah is a uniquely American song this Norwegian singer touches me deeply with her rendition. And OMG, the penny-whistle in this song is gripping!
"Oh Shenandoah, I love your daughter; away you rolling river....."
Many of us have written about how hard it is to see that special someone over the holidays. Families draw close, schedules are put on halt, patterns of behavior can't be followed not to mention the genuine obligation of making the time special for children. It is a paradox, the most wonderful time of year but a time where your mind often wonders to the one you can't be with. It also stinks to be sick over the holidays. People are close and nobody wants to be around someone who is coughing and contagious. And for the sick you certainly don't want to ruin anybody else's special time of year.
Both of our kids had gotten past their colds. Thank goodness no flu so I thought we had gotten through the holidays with no major hitches. But the day after Christmas I progressively felt worse. I was able to go on a walk that evening but I knew a cold was coming. No problem, I always come back quickly. By the next morning it hit me hard. Not much of a fever but fatigue and aches like I had been run over by large mammal. I stayed away from everyone thinking this would go away in a day with rest and sleep. It didn't. By day two I was worse. Shannon ordered me to urgent care and in fact I did have the flu. I don't get sick, ever! This double sucked. The family couldn't get out of the scheduled vacation without major losses to earned points so I told them to go on.
Normally this wouldn't be so bad. I had some projects to do around the house and I could see Sandee. But with the flu how much of that could be accomplished. I faced four days of being home alone with not much chance at any sort of fun.
By my third Tamiflu I was starting to feel better and started to get some projects done around the house. I also watched way more TV than I'm accustomed too. Thankfully I did have texting and Sandee and I enjoyed poking fun at my new found addition to chick flicks. I told her I watched Silver Lining Playbook, Divergent, and a few others. She said it was good I was getting in touch with my feminine side. We enjoy poking fun at each other that way. I asked her if she was partying on New Year's Eve and she said no. Rather, she said she was going to go kayaking at sunset to see the first sunrise of the year.
I asked her if she needed a first mate. She said it might be too cold for me, I could get sicker. I told her that she had once told me cold doesn't make you sick. She texted back "you guys are all the same always turning my words against me." We tease a lot, it's just part of our schtick! I left it alone but I thought I might surprise her the next morning and show up.
That is what is nice about knowing someone. When Sandee says she is going kayaking I know where she means, I know her place (or shall I say our place).
I woke up at 6 am on New Year's Day and got ready. Still a little slow but feeling good for the first time in about four days. I stopped by Dunkin Donuts and got two coffees and two muffins and drove to the river. The sun was just peaking out above the river as I drove across the bridge.
There she was, so beautiful. She was already in the water and she had not brought a second boat. I just watched her. She eventually saw me as she was paddling back. She smiled bashfully. She probably didn't appreciate not knowing I was coming. She was not as made up as normal but I didn't care, she was as beautiful as I've always known her to be.
As she stepped out of her kayak she giggled and said "I guess you are feeling better?"
I said, "yes I believe I am contagion free."
She said "no chick flicks on this morning?"
I smiled and said "no."
I offered her the coffee and she thankfully took it from me cradling the hot cup and bringing it to her rosy cheeks. She thanked me for the gift, she is always so appreciative of the smallest things. It makes me want to be sweet for her.
She stepped toward me and I hugged her and kissed the top of her head. She looked up at me. I said I should probably not kiss you. She looked disappointed but still very glad to see me.
We put her boat up and walked along the trail for some time talking about nothing in particular. The wind was chilling and crisp but invigorating against the golden sun bounding sparkles off the choppy water of the river. It felt good to see 2015 rise above us and it felt good to be with her on this first morning of the year.
Happy Black Friday! I btw will not be frequenting any Targets, Wal-Marts, or God-forbid the Hell that is the Tysons Corner Galleria today. But I have been thinking about things to suck up your time over the holidays, albeit better than dodging raging 'tweens between the Hollister's and Clair's as I try to get my hands on a Cinnamon Sugar pretzel. I've been wanting to write this post for about two years. Christmas is always a wonderful time but in DC it always seems particularly special. There are many special places we all think of when we think of DC but as usual I want to talk about some of those out of the way treasures that are really better than the main special places we all hear about.
So because I enjoy being unexpected and a little off beat here are some of those out of the way joys in and around DC if you happen to visit this year or any other Christmas.
I. A Ginormous Tree:
Georgetown in miniature
Most people coming to DC plan on going to the White House Christmas Tree. If you just have to do it just plan on some difficulty. Getting off the Metro near Lafayette Plaza or the Reagan Building will still leave you a 10-15 minute (often) cold walk. Now you may be the type of person to enjoy the tee shirt salesmen and street musicians banging on pickle buckets along the way. But for me the effort is not quite worth dealing with the throngs of people once you get there. I do enjoy the little trains in the area and the tree displays from every state. But make sure you bring change so the kiddies can throw it at the railroad cars for sport.
Hey let's filibuster holiday cheer!
Lazy Ryan says a better tree to see is the National Tree at the Capitol Building. On the weekend you can probably just park on the street and walk right up. Each year a tree from a different state is selected and decorated in the motif of that state. Fortunately they have yet to pick a tree from my hometown as that would have to be decorated with an empty can of Pabst Blue Ribbon, the fender of an old Dodge, and a piece of siding from a double wide! Adjacent to Congress is the United States Botanical Garden which always has a lovely Christmas display that you can enjoy in balmy warmth. There are beautiful displays of poinsettias along models of all the famous Federal buildings. There is also a wonderful holiday train set. There is even a touch and smell herb room. It's always astounding to me how much stinky smells can occupy a kid's attention. Usually after several miles of walking a good 30 minutes of smelling is just what is needed for the kids while Ryan takes a rest! And all of this comes at a great low price of exactly $Nothing! Well, you should probably leave a donation, but it is cheap!
II. Classy Entertainment:
If you have read this blog you know I love the Nutcracker. The Washington Ballet offers a lovely interpretation at the Warner Theater each holiday season. Septime Webre's version of the classic ballet puts a Washington colonial spin on the tale. In Webre's version George Washington is the Nutcracker Prince, King George is the Mouse King, and Clara encounters beautiful sassy Cardinals, Frontiersmen, sexy Anacostia Indians, and of course lovely Cherry Blossoms along her journey through the Land of Sweets. The Warner is a wonderful place to enjoy a show and this just always seems to set the season. The costumes and settings are perfect and the company is first rate. If you are lucky you will see Brooklyn Mack defy gravity as a Frontiersman in the Russian Suite and leap well beyond what you would think is humanly possible. And did I say the Indians (substituting for Arabian) are HOT. Oh yeah, I did but they are so go and enjoy. All of it, not just the Indians, but they are HOT! I gotta quit thinking about her!
III. For the Lazy:
You know sometimes you don't want to walk all day and take three Metro trains just to see a poinsettia. Or maybe it's just too damn cold outside to enjoy that real Douglas Fir fresh from the Oregon mountains. If the warmth of a fake faux Christmas village is just your thing then you need to be at the Gaylord at National Harbor's Christmas on the Potomac. The atmosphere inside really is enchanting and the nightly water and light shows with the Potomac in the background are beautiful. For the dudes there is a sports bar so you won't miss that Massengill Extra Mild Des Moins Dirt Bowl between the Florida Gulf Coast State Honey Beavers and the Northern Montana Tech Porkers. I think the kids said something about a Breakfast with Shrek and Santa but I was watching the cheerleaders on TV so I was ignoring them.
Fun but too damn cold!
Anyway across the street is Ice which, in a word, is breathtaking. And by breathtaking I mean it's "cold as a witch's tit in an iron bra (as us guys used to say)." At about +$30/pop it's also a bit pricey to be miserable in sub-zero temps though. I prefer just walking the streets and seeing decorations and people watching. We always meander down to the Peep Store. Stop it! I don't mean I go looking for Capital strippers! No it's a Peep store, you know, the Easter styrofoam candy things.
Oh well, by the end of all of this we are hungry and National Harbor has one of my all-time favorite concepts - Nando's. Ryan enjoys the spicy African chicken dishes, the hearty sides, and the soft serve ice cream; Shannon enjoys the warmth of a good South African Shiraz! The girls just like it 'cause the guys in One Direction mentioned Nando's once in an interview. But if you go I am sure you will come away saying Peri Peri!
IV. More Free Stuff - Union Station:
Did I mention that I am a cheap Bastard! Wait, any of you ladies contemplating coming to DC because I am so suave and sophisticated forget about that last statement. As my aunt used to say "we're not cheap we are just close with our money!"
Anyway, have you noticed that other than an $80 ballet ticket and a $40 meal at Nando's all this stuff I've been talkin' about is free! Kind of catch a theme here.
Well another place that is absolutely free is Union Station. Of course it's just a train station and that lady over there in the black knee high boots with 5 inch heels is probably not free. But Union Station is, in fact, quite spectacular and well worth a look. We love the large Norwegian Village decorated for Christmas and the player piano in the main lobby. Wait, actually I like the fact that the Norwegian Village takes my girls and Shannon's attention and now I can look at that life sized image of Sarah Palin they have for sale at the newsstand next door. Wow, standing next to her it appears that her hips are just in the right location for me to nail her in front of the mirror if we were back at the Gaylord! Oh God I would totally go all tea party to get a shot at that action! I'd even let her complain about me "paling around with Riff Dog" while I was nailing her. OH, baby; you know Ryan loves workin' it across party lines. Oops Shannon is walking over. "Hey dear look at this funny 'Cup of Joe' Stalin coffee mug, hilarious!" I don't think it worked, she knows I was looking at Sarah's perfectly aerobacized cardboard ass! Drat!
We better move along! :(
Oh, if you want more free just across the river in Arlington is the community of Cherrydale and what may be the merriest tackiest Christmas display ever! If you can make your way across the river and through the Sprout Run Parkway you will enjoy the lights on Quebec St. They always do a wonderful job. My favorite was back in 2011 when they did an Occupy Cherrydale Christmas Lights Extravaganza, the Elf protest was hilarious! :)
V. Outside the Beltway:
So if you are one of those Tea Baggers, I mean Partyers, and you just have to get outside the Beltway to see the "real" America there are some very quaint spots. The best spot would be curled up alongside Ryan next to the fireplace and adjacent to his tree!
But if we don't cross paths here are some other outside-the-Beltway gems.
Mount Vernon - Mount Vernon is really a must see when you are in DC. Really it is a beautiful majestic place any time of year, perched above the Potomac and now overlooking Alexandria. The tour of the house and grounds is very interesting and not too long for the kiddies and the Visitors Center has some really interesting interactive exhibits to keep everyone happy. For me I just love breathing in the aura of Virginia gentility and to understand how uncommon it was and is to have a man that led a lost cause to victory and then held so much power in his hands and yet had the true nobility to walk away. Kind of like Ryan when he chooses to not flirt with the hot MILF's at his daughter's school! OH and you have to check out George's Christmas Camel! Food is real good in the Visitor's Center and the the Mount Vernon Inn is even better.
Hershey - Did you know the sweetest place in the world is just up the road about 1 hour? Yep, and you guessed it they have cheap and free stuff as well! That is what is so great about this place, it's like you are close to everything except for like Vegas which will take about 4 hours on a Southwest Air jet.
But really Hershey is much more festive at Christmas than Vegas and you won't lose as much money. In fact the World of Chocolate is free and Hershey Park opens up Christmas decorated kiddie rides for a pretty affordable price. There are also some really nice shows throughout the day in the park to get the Christmas spirit going. At the end of the day the Hershey Grille is a great place to end your visit at the Sweetest Place on Earth. On the way home take a drive through the Christmas Candy lane Lights.
Harpers Ferry from Maryland Heights
Harpers Ferry - Located astride the confluence of the Potomac and the Shenandoah Rivers and at the intersection of three states, Harpers Ferry has always been at the crossroads of history. There are certainly many great attractions and restaurants in the area but most of all it's fun just to take in the Victorian charm, walk the brick streets, and see the old Civil War era buildings and decor. As you do this you see the beauty of the rivers below the last peak of the Blue Ridge Mountains, forming the boundary of Virginia and West Virginia, as they end at the Potomac and give way to the Catoctin Mountains across into Maryland. Above the town you see the spectacular peak of Maryland Heights that has famously overlooked this beautiful town. Harpers Ferry is so much of a Gateway as it sits at the end of the Shenandoah Valley seemingly far from anything commercial and yet a short drive down Rt 9 into Leesburg and those outer x-urbs of Metro DC.
And just in case you were in fact looking for a Miracle on 34th Street you can actually go to 34th Street in Baltimore and see a wonderful display of lights. I have to admit I have not visited there but I think I will soon as it was recommended to me by one of my dearest followers who has joined me on this blog in the past, thanks Moira! :)
So good luck with those crowds if you simply must go shopping today but consider really getting into the true meaning of the season and just get out and breath some fresh Christmas spirit. Nothing makes you feel more alive than to take in the the chilly fresh Appalachian holiday mountain air.
Our family has an ongoing joke that our girls can never get a straight answer from Shannon and Ryan on what we like in a restaurant. It always ends up going into a full on Travel Channel styled debate on quality control, menu selection, service, and value. But we enjoy it. Shannon of course just wants the best food and a great glass of Pinot and isn't worried about price. For Ryan though, enjoyment (as with many things in his life) is always a bit nebulous and grounded in value. Meaning, Ryan loves a good Filet Mignon but would rather have a great $25 filet with pretty good service over an $80 orgasmic filet. Well maybe Filet Mignon is not a good illustration as an $80 velvet textured filet that you can spread with your tongue is a rare and beautiful thing like other things that are so tender you can spread with you tongue. But anyway, any answer from Ryan on "do you like this place daddy?" is clouded in price vs value, along with presentation, choices of sides, service, and other accouterments that nobody (and certainly not my daughters) care about.
What you end up with a happy environment, a warm atmosphere, solidly good food not at Victoria and Albert's pricing, and a free show! Who doesn't like free, especially at Disney. Doesn't Irish music and those quick footed Irish dancers just make life seem great!? And when they are so close to you and so cute, all the better (dancers and musicians)! At our last visit we got to see these dancers and the Briste Band who are one talented group of cute Irish lassies! Yes, during your visit you will laugh, cry, drink, maybe be kicked, maybe fall down from too much drink but you will leave full and happy.
Walls for the winds 
